Chest Cancer

marc:the wood whisperer is sponsored by powermatic. the gold standard since 1921, and by rockler woodworking and hardware. create with confidence. (lively music) welcome to the first ina two-part project series benefiting woodworkers fighting cancer. what we're gonna build is a rocking horse.

it's just a very basic design provided by the folks at wood magazine. we have the plan available for you if you want to go to the website. you can go to thewoodwhisperer.com and find the links there or just go towoodworkersfightingcancer.com and all the instructions will be there for how you can download the plan

and build along. the idea here is it's a sponsored event so every person who builds one of these rocking horsesand sends me a picture contributes to the cause because each one of these sponsors is donating a dollar foreach completed rocking horse. it's a really cool thing. i'm donating a buck myself

and these companies arematching my donations and we're hoping to hit our$10,000 goal for the year. it's gonna be a super project. i hope you build along. let's see what you'regonna need to build it. a 3/4 inch by 20 inch by 72 inch pre laminated pine panel. i got mine from lowe's, and a length at 3/4 inch dowel stock.

a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade, a router outfitted witha 1/8 inch roundover bit, and a random orbit sander. a handsaw, a rasp andyour favorite square. a 3/4 forstner bit, a counter-sink bit and some screws. a compass and a french curve. and some construction adhesive. now before we get started

of course, we have to haveour pre project ritual. it's a tradition here inthe wood whisperer shop and this is no exceptionwith this project. now that, my friends iswhat i call limbering up, jersey style. okay, so when you start this project you pretty much have two choices. you need to figure out howdo you wanna get the patterns on to the work piece

because really you don'twant to have to redraw all these things. the works is already done for us. you have two options. number one, you couldprint out the full size it's referred to asprinter-friendly set of plans. basically what this is, is a set of seven sheets ofpaper that we'll print out that you then have toorganize in particular order

on your workpiece andyou tape them together, and when it's all said and done you have the final shape. the cool thing is youcan just print this out using your home printer or office printer and it goes on these 81/2 by 11 pieces of paper. the drawback is you now have to tape all of these things together, so it's kind of a bit of apain in the butt that way.

the thing is, make sure if you do this that when you print out, you set your scalingoptions to no scaling. you don't want to fit topage or anything like that. just make sure that it's no scaling and if you're forced toput a number in for scaling put it at 100%. you just want to make surethat it's printing raw and then when it's done there's a scale

on the actual plans themselves and you could take a ruler to it and double check that it did print at the proper setting. once you have that, put them all together and you're good to go. but my preferred method is to take the absolute full size plan and take that pdf, putit on a thumb drive,

head over to fedex kinkos, office max, any place that does large scale printing and have them print that file out on a 24 by 36 piece of paper and that's what i have here. for basically, i don't know, it's gonna be between three and $5 depending on their pricing, you could have this printedout on one full sheet.

it's gonna make yourlife a whole lot easier so i really, reallyrecommend you go this route instead of doing the home printing route because at this point all i need to do is stick this to the surface and i'm good to go. all right, that's really the next step is to take all of our full size patterns and get them on to the workpiece.

now whether you glued up your own boards or whether you're working with a single pre laminated board like i am, either way you just want to be strategic so you don't waste material. fortunately for this i'm following exactly what theyrecommended in the plans. all i need to do is usethe diagram in the plans to transfer my drawings and everything

directly to the workpiece. that's the next step. let's get started. the first thing i want to do is draw the location of the saddle. because that comesfirst and then the body. i want to make sure the saddle is in place and we don't actually have anoutline or pattern for that but we do have a diagramin the plan that we can use

to draw this in place and it's gonna be fairly easy to do. first thing's first. i want to measure upseven inches from the edge and your edge should bein pretty good shape. if it's not you may want toclean it up a little bit. mine are pretty goodright from the package. not too worried about that. just gonna set my adjustablesquare here for seven inches.

that should be pretty good. now our length here is 11 1/4. the saddle's gonna havea nice little notch here. the way we get that isby measuring in 1 13/16. looks so, and we need to go in 113/16 from the other end. we also need to measure in 3/4 of an inch, and that's how deep the notch goes. okay, so now this is a notchthat's gonna be removed.

each of our four cornersgets a nice curve, it's very easy to lay this out. i'll show you one and it'spretty much the same thing on each of this four corners. we're just gonna measure in 3/4 of an inch from the long edge here. right about there. i'm gonna measure over two inches from the end grain.

now all we need to do isconnect those two lines using a curve. just one of these traditionaldrafting french curves is really perfect for this. just a little tip here. to make sure that that curve, you can connect those twolines with multiple places using the french curve. to make sure that it'sthe same on each one

what i like to do is line it up to where i think it looks good and then i'll just usemy marker or a pencil to place little hash marks that show me exactly whatpart of the curve i use, so no matter where i'm at i could very easily line those things up. put that in place. this does not have to perfect.

this is really just decorative. there's the saddle. before i draw the rest of the pieces, i need to know where the main body piece is going to go. it's a little bit of a tightfit if you look at the diagram so i don't really want to do my sticking of the templatesto the boards just yet. i want to do that all at once.

what i'm gonna do here is take my full size template. drop it on and i couldsee through the paper. i could see where my marks are. get everything approximately located where it's gonna need to go here and then right at the end of the horse, basically it's butt, i'm just gonna lift upthe paper, take my pencil

and put a mark right at theend of the body template, right here, all right? that lets me know even though my template isn't in place, it shows me that i should goany further past this line, but all this area up here is where i could putthe rest of my pieces. you know what, while we're at it, let's put in some marks for the main too.

that will give us a real good idea where those boundaries are. now, right behind the main i'm gonna draw in one of our saddle sides. we need two of these. basically it's about eight inches across. all right, we want to make sure that that eight inch spanfits comfortably in here. okay, you don't want it tobe too close to the saddle

but it is gonna curve in. you should have no problem, and what i'm gonna do is make a mark. if this is my eight inches i want to make a markright here in the middle at what would be fourinches in the dead center. now i'm just gonna extend that line down, then i'm gonna make a mark at 1 3/8 right on that center line here.

the plans don't call this out. they say the whole distance is 5 3/8 but i think you need toknow that it's 1 3/8 here because that tells youwhere to place your compass. set your compass for four inches. okay, we're making basically a circle here with a four inch radius. put the point right at that cross here and now draw in your fancy saddle.

now you don't have tonecessarily redraw a second one if you don't want to. you could certainly cutthis one out, shape it, and then use that as atemplate for your next one but i'm gonna draw it herejust for the heck of it. remember, you want to make sure you leave yourself enoughclearance between the pieces because you got to fita blade through there so don't make it too tight.

now let's sketch in the saddle back. i'm gonna give myself enough room from the previous piece,from the saddle side and i'm just gonna draw a starting line and then i'm gonna measurein 4 3/4 of an inch from that point. i also want to draw in the center line which is gonna be 2 3/8. now i can extend that center line

up into the board, and now i'm just gonnadraw a line at the top here which will represent thetop of the saddle back and that's at 6 1/8 right there. now at that 6 1/8 mark iwant to measure down an 1 1/2 because this is gonna bewhere i put my compass point to draw the curvature of the top. now the compass is set at 1 1/2 inches. put the point and the cross here

and i'm basically justdrawing a half circle here. now all we need to do isconnect the bottom line to the point where itintersects the circle. this doesn't have to be perfect. again, this is one of those things you're probably never gonnasee it from 20 feet away. the child using it certainly isn't going to bepulling out a bevel gauge but let me just show youone trick that you can use

if you want to be a littlebit more picky about it. what you need is one of these adjustable bevel gauges here. okay, loosen it up and i'm gonna set it so that it intersects withthis line and my circle. all right, once you have what you think is the perfect setting, lock it in and then you could draw your first line. okay, just flip it over

and do the same thing on the other side. now you could be absolutely certain that those angles are dead on. now let's work on the front support. i'm gonna give myselfanother starting line. in front of that starting point we're gonna measure over 3 1/2 inches. now the top of this front support piece is gonna be located 6 1/2 inches up

from this bottom area here. i'm just gonna draw alittle line up there. we don't know exactlywhere it's located yet or what this length is but we're going to draw in some angles that will help us establish that. with a protractor, i just setmy bevel gauge to 80 degrees and now i can draw in my two lines here. flip it do the other side.

our center support is drawn in exactly the same way as the front support, it's just a few different measurements. you already have your bevel gauge set so this angle is already established. just do the same thingwe did for this one. with all the drawings done we can now turn ourattention to the patterns. with a big piece like thisit's probably a good idea

to cut most of the excess off. it will just be much easier to work with and a lot easier tolocate on to the board. that's the first step. i should mention, if you happen to have kids this is probably a really good project to bring them into the shop on. i mean you got a lot ofcutting to do with scissors.

there's pasting to do. putting the templates on to the workpiece, and you're using some verybasic tools to do this. obviously with safety precautions in mind, this seems like a good oneto bring the kids in on. here's a quick tip for you. as you're cutting out someof these smaller pieces like the ears and the foot rest, some of them will have straight edges

and you're going toreference that straight edge off of the edge of the work piece. it's really nice if you can get your cut right along the line. but using your scissors tomake a perfectly straight line can be really tricky. you can make really quick work of it by working number one onthe sacrificial surface that you don't care if you cut into.

take a nice straight edge. put it right on your line and then use an x-acto knife or box cutter whatever you have onhand, a nice sharp blade and you can cut that piece right off, and now you know you have a perfectly straight edge to work with. before sticking ourpatterns to the surface you just want to make sure

you double check yourself with the diagram and that you have everythingthat you need in place. plenty of room up here for a foot rest. remember you have two foot rests to do so you're gonna have toprint out two copies of that and one tail piece, and of course two of the ears, and they go down hereaccording to the plan. really just try to mess things together

in a way that it gives you ... we rather have extra room than not enough. once you're pretty confident that everything is located in an area where it's not going tocross over to another piece, we could start stickingthese to the surface. before i do that i'm gonnabe spraying my material. what i need is a very basic outline here. i'm just gonna grab a pencil.

this is just gonna give mea general shadow outline that says keep your sticky stuff within these lines. that's gonna be realhelpful so we don't have the adhesive going everywhere. to attach our patternsyou could pretty much use any commercially available spray adhesive. any one will really do the job. i've got lock tight here.

the idea is you spray a nicethin coat on the surface, let it set up for about a minute and then bring your patterns and drop them unto the surface. this stuff really isn't verygood for you to breathe in so i definitely recommendusing a respirator and if you can open up some windows, get some good cross ventilation whenever you spray this stuff.

i'm gonna gear up and we'll get started. (spraying) now i recommend placingyour small pieces first and this will give you alittle bit better of an idea of what to expect on the bigger pieces that can be more tricky. since i have a nice straight edge on the bottom part of my ear, i'm going to take a ruler

and just use that as arest for placing my ear. now to position the big guy i'm gonna hold the head back like this. i'm gonna fold it back and try to make contact in only a couple places at once. i'm gonna do the bottom and the back, the main body piece here. okay, that's looking pretty good.

now we can sort of slowly unfold it. like that. before we do any cutting just in keep in mindthat this area over here is reserved for our second body piece. i'm gonna cut the first one out and i'll show you laterhow we can use that to cut out the secondpiece very accurately so that they're exactly the same.

when you're cuttingaround all of these parts be real conservative about it because we still need to get something out of this right side. all of our cutting is gonnabe done using the jigsaw and i wanna show you the difference between a very fine cutting blade and a rough cutting blade. this guy here is very aggressive.

look at the big teeth on it. you could see it doesn't have nearly as many teeth per inch as this smaller one does. the smaller size of this one allows me to navigate tighter curves. the recommendation generally is to go, aim for something that'sabout 20 teeth per inch. i believe this one is 18.

that's close enough for me. this guy is only about sixor seven teeth per inch so that's gonna be amuch more aggressive cut. the cleaner these cuts are the less work we have to do later. fine tooth blades are the way to go. now you want to try andget as close as you can but you definitely don't want to go over. basically judge your comfort level

and make sure you don't go too far. leave yourself a little bitof slack if you need to. you could always sand itback to the line later. just another quick tip. that spray tends to get obviously beyond our lines here, and it's a little bit sticky, and that might make it tricky for the base of our jigsaw to ride along there.

take a little bit of dustfrom the shop somewhere and rub that into the surface. that will effectively stopit from being so sticky. (jazz music) here's another quick tip for you. if you have areas where things are gonna get really, really tight. this is a good example. you may have difficultynavigating some tight turns

depending on the size of your blade. it's not a bad idea to take a drill. (buzzing) and just pre drill a couple of holes and those holes willactually make it much easier to turn corners, all right? anywhere like right in here. it's a 90-degree angle right there. that little hole is gonnamake that so much easier

to turn that corner when the time comes. now i've got all of my parts cut and sitting here on the workbench, and they all need alittle bit of finessing. not one of them is perfect to the line and that's just the safe way to go. i'm either gonna sandor use some other tool to bring it back to that line. you could certainly sand.

i've got my random orbit sander here if i wanted to and i couldtake it on that edge. the thing is when you're dealing with a 3/4 inch thick piece of material, it's very easy to roll itto one side or the other and you lose that nice, crisp edge. personally, i prefer touse other types of tools for something like this. you could certainly usesomething like a spokeshave

but i've got this nice rasp here. it's basically a wood file essentially that you could just ran across the surface and it's really good forhitting those high points. as you move it across the surface you really feel it snag whenever you're at oneof those high spots. (scraping) you can carefully work the edge

until you're back to the line. i could do this for all of my pieces. the one i want to focuson first is the side because we need to cutanother one of this. once i get this down to my line and it's absolutely perfect, i'll take it over to myremaining cut off piece and trace around the outsidewith a very thin pencil, a very tiny pencil line,

and then i'll cut that second piece out. once you have your curvelooking the way you want it especially on a big long curve like this, you can then use something like this. this is a flexible sanding strip. basically it's just a pieceof eight inch hardboard with some shop made little handles here that were cut offs from another project. this side just gets alittle bit of sandpaper

using pretty much the same spray adhesive that we used for our templates. the good thing is see how it flexes and conforms to whatevercurve you need to sand. this will really smooth things out nicely. in these tighter areas you'regonna have to get creative because you can only go so far with things like a rasp. what i recommend doingis taking some hardboard

or just some very thin stock and using your spray adhesiveto attach some sandpaper. just like with the sanding strip. these little guys are great for getting into these tight areas. if you need to do flatareas these are perfect. you may also want to considertaking some dowel stock and just wrapping a littlesandpaper around that. this will allow you to getinto the rounder areas like so.

all right, a lot of these stuff really isn't absolutely supercritical that it be perfect. just make sure it's smooth and there's no splintered wood. ultimately we're really concerned about safety at this point. we just don't want any rough, splintery wood in these areas. for areas that are supposedto be nice and straight

like the front of the horse's head, if you have a hand plane this is a great time tojust take a few passes right on the top here. this is end grain so it's gonna be a little bit rough. once you're gettingcontact all the way across, it's nice and flat and all of your milling marks

and your saw marks are gone. for the rest of these parts you're really just gonnafollow the same procedures. you want to sand, scrape, plane, chisel. do whatever you have to do to get back to your lines. the good thing is most of these parts especially the ones with the curves, they're not necessarily as critical

because these are just decorative elements and if they're slightlydifferent than one another, i mean is anyone really gonna notice if these two ears areslightly off from one another? it's not too big of a deal. on the parts that have angled cuts you do want to get prettyclose to your pencil line just to make sure that thoseangles are nice and tight because these are going tohold the sides together.

that's just something to think about but just work your wayback to the pencil lines, and you should be good to go. now that i've got one side piece pretty much shaped exactlythe way we want it, i'm gonna take it onto my remaining piece of my laminated board, and we can cut out the other side. that looks pretty good.

i'm gonna take a very finefive millimeter lead pencil and trace around because now i really want these pieces to be as close to each other as possible. now i just need to cutout and sand this piece so that it matches our first one. once you have your second body piece cut it's a good idea to bringthese two pieces together. make sure that the bottomis pretty much flushed.

line everything up andjust use your fingers. you don't have to besuper precise about it but as long as it's prettymuch even on the bottom then you want to take alook up here at the saddle. just feel with yourfingers and take a look. you want to make sure there'sno major discrepancies here because you're gonna be putting the saddle on top of these pieces. if one is significantlyhigher than the other

it can really screw things up. just pay attention to that and if you need to do a little trim work go ahead and trim it up a little bit. mine seem pretty good. i feel like maybe a 1/16of an inch difference here and i'm really not to worried about that. the bottom, some of thecurvature is not matching up so i think this is a case where

if we just clamp two pieces together we may be able to fix this fairly easily. with the pieces clamped together and the whole thing sitting in the vice, i can now actually work on both of these surfaces at the same time. before you might recall, i said not to use a sander because it's very easyto roll it over the edge.

in this case we're actually working with two pieces sandwiched together. now we have twice the thickness and it's a little bit easier to keep things on track. i would recommend in this situation a good option certainlyis to take a sander to it so that's what i'm gonna do. with our two body piecesstill clamped together,

this is the perfect timeto start drilling through. we have our pattern here and it actually tells usexactly what type of hole we want to put in theseparticular locations. frankly, they can geta little bit confusing if you're not careful. what i've done is i'vejust marked certain ones with orange marker to show me the two different types ofholes that we're gonna do

so i don't get confused. you work it out ahead of time and you avoid making mistakes. if you read the text here it says 3/8 of an inch hole, 1/4 inch deep with a 530 second shank. this is what i recommend you do. if you get a counterbore,countersink bit like this this one has a stop collar.

i picked this one up from rockler. basically, you're gonna drill through with just the shank of the bit here on some of these holes, but on others you're gonnado a full counterbore. the reason for this is because it just depends on what we're attachingin those positions. for things like the foot rest and the ear

the screw is gonna come in from the inside of this workpiece. we wouldn't want tocounterbore here, right? all we're gonna do ispunch a screw through we'll be counterboring on the other side. all we need is a shank hole here so that we have that as reference when we flip the piece over and we could do the full counterbore.

in other areas where we have pieces that connect the two body pieces together such as this one here, the screw is gonna comein from the outside so we need the counterboresin these locations and of course up here as well. all right, that's what youreally want to think about but this one bit willdo everything for you. just make sure you mark ahead of time

and you won't get confused. now the clamp's removed i could take the two pieces apart and before i really gotoo far with these piece i just want to make a couple of marks because i want to counterbore before i flip this piece. the ones that need to becounterbored on the inside are the ears, so i'm gonnacircle those just for reference.

i need to counterbore downhere for the foot rest. all right and that should do it. the rest of these holes they're still not all the way through so the counterboring has totake place on the other side but i can't do that if i don't know where those holes are. here's the strategy. on the counterbored ones of course

just drill all the way through. (drilling) all right, you got your counterbore there. on the ones that do not havea counterbore from the inside i just want to create a hole that is now visible from the other side of the workpiece. i get the rest of these done. now i'm gonna flip the piece over

and mark the locations thatreceived the counterbores from the outside. all right, these are support pieces. those get counterbores and counterbore here but ear and foot rest do not get the counterborefrom the outside. this is where organization really counts because now you need toflip the original piece over and add the counterbores in the locations

where they're supposed to be. we haven't done those yet. on the outside face ofeach one of our body pieces we need to drill a 3/4 inch wide, 3/8 of an inch deep hole and that's gonna take the dowel rod which will basically serve as the handles. what i'm gonna use isa 3/4 inch forstner bit which gives us a nice flat bottom hole

and the hole that's alreadythere, our little pilot hole is gonna help guide thecenter spur on this bit. be careful with these things because especially ifyou're using a soft wood these can really get away from you. just hold your drill very steady and if you have a drill pressit's a good time to use it. that's all you need to do. the next thing we need to do

is transfer the locations of our holes to the actual pieces that are going to be screwed together. for instance, we need to know exactly where those screws are gonna penetrate into the foot rest because if we don't it's gonna be very difficultto position this in place and when the screw goes through there,

if there's no pilot hole it could very well split this work piece. what you want to do is line it up and just make sure that the workpiece is touching the dashedlines there for reference and transfer the center line of that hole to your workpiece. then i'm gonna place amark 3/8 of an inch down which is pretty much thecenter point of workpiece.

the 330 second of an inch pilot hole should do the trick. then you're gonna wannafollow the same process through the remainingparts of the project. there is one more set of holes that we have to put in place and that's where the tailmeets the back support piece. you should have a center line from drawing it originally.

measure up from the bottom a half inch. place a mark there and that is where the bottomof the tail is gonna start. where you put these holes is actually not that critical. i'm just going to eyeball it here and let's say we'll put one about there and one about here, and i'm putting markson both the tail piece

and the back piece at the same time. all i need to do is put my pilot holes just like we have with allof our other pieces in here so this connects upthe screw easily enough and i've got my marks here. what i want to do is punchthrough with the shank. flip this piece over and then now we could do the countersink. perfect.

the next thing i want to do is clean up all of the flat surfaces, roundover my edges using a roundover bit and basically get everything ready for finish and assembly. of course, here's the bad side of using stick on template like this is we have to get this stuff off. there's a few ways that you can handle it.

let me show you. certainly one way to do it is to use something like a card scraper and you could slowly but surely scrape the paper off and expose the glue layer underneath. this is probably what i would recommend for the smaller pieces. it's gonna be one of theeasiest ways to handle it.

it's not a real fun process but you'll get there eventually. just get as much of thatpaper off as you can. on a large surface like the horse body once again, if you are so inclined, feel free to use your scraper. i'm actually going to sacrifice one of my random orbit sander pads and in fact, i always haveused ones laying around

so why the heck not use itfor something like this. what i'm gonna do issand through the paper. the glue that's underneath will gum up that sandpaper real fast, but the paper on the topdoesn't have any glue on it so i should be able to sand through like i've done right here and get pretty close to that glue layer. after that quick sanding

you could see it's quite a bit cleaner and i don't have any of that paper there, but don't be deceived because the surface still has a lot of that adhesive on it. what i'm gonna do is use alittle bit of mineral spirits. i've got some odorless mineral spirits. this is that milky stuff that's better for the environment.

i'm gonna rub that into the surface using an abrasive pad and the abrasive pad is what'sreally gonna help pull up a lot of that adhesive material. probably not a bad idea to spread a little on the surface, let it soak in for a second or two and then come back and wipe up the excess. mine's not absolutelyperfect at this point

but i gave it some time to dry and i think any of theremaining sticky parts will come up with the sandpaper. probably gonna go through a couple of sheets to do this but i think this way isjust a little bit faster. now it's safe to take all of my parts, all of the small piecesand sand everything up to 220 grit.

that will get us ready for finishing. for some of these smaller parts you're gonna have a tough time using something like a random orbit sander. you may just have to hit those by hand just to make sure theyget up to the final grit. now our faces are nice and smooth and we still have this really sharp edges. of course this is a child's toy.

we want to make sure thatthese sharp edges are gone. a great way to do that isto use a roundeover bit, and i have an eighth inch roundover bit in my trim router here. if you have a router table you could certainly put the bit in there. that will be just as easy. i'm gonna take this to all of the edges except for the ones wheresome sort of joinery

is gonna take place. this part of the saddle here there's really no reasonto round that over. areas like for instanceon these foot pieces, the foot rest where thefoot rest meets the body there's really no reason toround that edge over either. everything else does get rounded over. once again, if things are too small to do with the router

which a lot of these smaller pieces are, you're just gonna have to ease the edges with some sandpaper, and create that roundeoveras best you can. same thing's gonna happen up here by the horse's mouth. we can't get a router bit in there so we're gonna do the best we can to match that profile using sandpaper.

of course a rocking horse needs a couple of handles. this 3/4 inch dowel rod is perfect. i have a mark here at 3 3/8 and i'm just gonna saw through. of course we need two of these. of course we don't want to leave these really sharp ends here. one of these is gonna gointo that 3/4 inch hole

that we created in the body but the outside edge here is gonna need a little bit of work just to make it a littlemore user-friendly for tiny fingers. just breaking the edge at 45-degree angle is really all you need to do. i still have a little bit of sanding and rounding over to dotoday before i go home,

but i think this is a good stopping point. next time we're gonna cover the assembly. we're gonna do some pre finishing because it's gonna be a lot easier to finish this stuffbefore we put it together. finishing and assembly next time. thanks for watching. a big thank you to our event sponsors. wood magazine, festool usa,

the william ng school of fine woodworking, lie-nielsen toolworks,bell forest products, microjig and highland woodworking. and a special thanks toour individual sponsors erik gilling and joseph buscemi. if you'd like to build this project or donate directly, head over towoodworkersfightingcancer.com. (lively jazz music)